Back to Nassau on Wednesday

We contemplated another day in the Exumas - Normans Cay or Highborne Cay, but the weather reports didn't sound very good, so we got a 9:00 start for the 30+ nm trip back to Nassau. We had the wind behind us all the way, so the ride was a little rolly, but we lucked out with the weather. The whole way we watched dark gray clouds hugging the horizon in all directions, but we had spotty sunshine all the way and only about 20 raindrops for about 5 minutes. We pulled into Nassau Harbour Club around 3:30 and were greeted by the news that Pete and Kathy had dinner all planned. It was welcome news because the larder was pretty bare! Patrick, Rose and I went over to the City Market to get a few breakfast items and so they could check out what a Bahamian supermarket was like. They enjoyed cruising the aisles and comparing prices with Concepcion.

As we returned to the boat we could smell Pete already grilling upwind and hurried over to Pekabu III for a reunion gathering. It was great to be back together again. ~~~_/)~~~M&D, P&R

You could see the gray clouds and several showers all around us most of the day.

Hawksbill to Shroud (a less than 4 mile trip)

There wasn't even time to roll out the jib (plus we needed to make some hot water and boost the batteries a bit) as we headed to Shroud on Tuesday morning. We found several open moorings in the mooring field and were ready to swim and adventure ashore right after lunch. Patrick found a sharksucker lurking under the boat during his morning swim and got a few good pictures of it. We also discovered we could just hold the camera underwater while cruising around in the dinghy and get some decent pictures!

Patrick's sharksucker is top left, note the conch shell in the crevice lower right. I caught the snub tailed ray on a trip to shore and didn't see the bar jack until I put it on the computer. We wondered what happened to it's tail.

High tide was around 4 pm, so we took the two kayaks into the lagoon off our anchorage while we waited for our trip through the mangroves to the windward side of the island. Patrick and Dan pedaled their way as far as the shallows would let them while Rose, Betty and I adventured on the beach, there was lots more to see here and we were amazed at the number of tiny shells that lined to the high tide line.

The lagoon at Shroud is a nursery for mangroves, note the sprouts next to Patrick. The old conch we found was sporting a funny "hairdo" of growth.

The trip to the north end and up the "river" is always amazing, so Andiamo decided to join us. We split up, I went with John and Betty to even the dinghies. We were surprised to find several other dinghies there and many people swimming on the ocean side of the island. We joined them for a bit and then headed up to Camp Driftwood on the highest point of land. Reportedly the original inhabitant was a hermit who built a shack out of driftwood and then the story continues that the FBI stationed a "watch " there to keep an eye on drug traffic on Norman's Cay. The view from the top was spectacular.

It was a beautiful calm day and the swimming on the windward side was amazing.

We all hiked to the top of the hill at Camp Driftwood to see the view.

The top shows the winding river leading to the windward side of Shroud and the bottom shows the view from Camp Driftwood. There is nothing left of the structure, just a flat site and a cairn marking the spot.

Tomorrow we head back to Nassau to avoid some "weather " that is due on Thursday. ~~~_/)~~~ M&D, P&R

Emerald Rock to Hawksbill Cay

Pekabu III was up and gone on Monday morning before any of us were awake - Pete had a lot of work and wanted more internet connection than the park provides, so they headed back to Nassau. The rest of us had a leisurely sail up to Hawksbill and crept in over some pretty "thin" spots to pick up a park mooring along the beautiful beach at the northern end of the cay. Last trip we had been at the southern anchorage, so it was new territory for us. We had lunch aboard Andiamo (more of John's great grilling) and then took the dinghy ride into the beach. The beach and water right off it were as pristine as any we've seen . Patrick and Rose immediately took a swim (which they love to do as often as possible) and I searched the shallows and beach for shells or conch or anything. The only thing I found was one small white buttercup shell which I decided to set afloat to see how far it would float on the calm waters at the beach. It stayed afloat until I couldn't see it anymore!


When we returned to the boat we put one of the kayaks together and Patrick was quite impressed with the speed the pedals produced. Lunch had been the main meal, so we snacked on hors d'oeuvres for dinner and watched again for the elusive green flash. We'll head to Shroud on Tuesday. ~~~_/)~~~M&D

I wasn't kidding when I said the plane was close!

Betty sent us this picture this morning, it WAS really close! We're off to Hawksbill Cay under cloudy skies (at 10:30 am) ~~~_/)~~~M&D, P&R

Emerald Rock Excitement

Wow, the sun has set on another eventful day. (Still no green flash, tho)

Before I begin, I have a few pictures to fill in for the last few days. Kathy stopped over this afternoon and shared her pictures of our Sampson Cay lunch on Friday and last night's beach party, so here they are:

Lunch at Sampson Cay with Kay and Tommy (the photographer) from Jubilee, Marty and Matt Miller (Runaway), Rose, Patrick, Dan & Martha (Brunelle), John and Betty (Andiamo) and Pete and Kathy (Pekabu III)

There were only two dinghies when we arrived at the Saturday night beach party on Whale Beach next to the Park Headquarters, but by the time we left, we counted over twenty! Sunset was issued in by a chorus of conch horns, in true island tradition.

We may have lost an hour by springing forward today, but we packed lots in to the remaining 23. The morning was spent sharing pictures with Rose and Patrick. They had some amazing pictures of a trip they took last month to the Andes and they got the full show of the Hinckley week aboard Brunelle. We set up a snorkeling trip with Andiamo and Pekabu III for after lunch and headed to the reef near Emerald Rock. It is amazing how many fish congregate there.

We were particularly enamored of the large brain coral and the humongous hermit crab inhabiting the conch shell.

We decided to head into the main anchorage at Warderick Wells to check out the coral heads there. We no sooner had jumped in the water when we spied two large spiny lobsters doing battle! There was third one nearby, but he didn't seem to be involved. Who knows what they were battling about, and without claws they didn't cause any damage, but one certainly seemed to come out as the winner and the other "limped" away in disgrace! There were at least ten other lobsters hanging out on the coral heads we visited, and none seemed to worry about hiding from us. We also saw one of the largest rays I've seen (outside the aquarium). All in all a very successful trip.

Clash of the titans, --- a Nassau grouper is brave enough to call the winner - - -who struts off victorious!

There was lots more to see on the coral heads near the Park Headquarters.

We were back aboard Brunelle and Rose and I were preparing our contribution to the group dinner aboard Andiamo when we heard shouts from on deck. We emerged to see a sea plane about 20 feet from the boat heading for the beach! We watched the passenger deplane and be picked up by the tender from a large yacht further out in the anchorage. While we were watching that excitement we noticed that we had another visitor - a shark was lurking right below us. And to think we had all been showering and jumping in to rinse just half an hour before! Dinner and a movie aboard Andiamo was delicious and fun. We head further up the chain tomorrow, but still within the park border. ~~~_/)~~~M&D, P&R

A little evening entertainment.

Our new friend.

Chilean Week Begins in the Bahamas

Patrick and Rose (and the Chilean flag) arrived safely on

Wednesday to join us in our Bahamian adventure

Back to Staniel Cay "Airport" one more time on Wednesday afternoon. Dan went in alone so there would be room for bags and such, but Patrick and Rose had taken us at our word and packed light. Only two medium sized duffels accompanied them back to Brunelle! We were anchored back at Big Majors and their 2 o'clock flight from Nassau landed them aboard around 3:30. They had had a long day, overnight from Santiago, a wait in Miami and then a wait in Nassau. They changed immediately into bathing suits and enjoyed a refreshing swim even before settling in. We were just starting to think about dinner when a Boston Whaler came by with two guys selling Bahamian lobsters. We bought two good sized ones and the dinner issue was solved. Having once been a "Maine-iac" I probably will be shot for saying they were just as tasty as any I've had "down east". ...Early to bed .

We had a full day on Thursday - toured Staniel Cay and got fresh bread at the bakery and were able to find fresh vegetables (the boat came in yesterday) at the Blue Store, back aboard Brunelle for a luncheon sail to Harvey Cay (about two miles SW of the Big Majors anchorage) where we snorkeled before eating, and then back to Big Majors anchorage for a late afternoon trip to Thunderball Grotto for another snorkeling adventure. A front was due in on Friday, so decided to stay put for another day.

While snorkeling at Harvey Cay we watched this Scrawled Cowfish change colors in less than two minutes as if swam from one location to another.

Trips to Thunderball Grotto are always a great photo op. Patrick loved diving down and getting close and personal with all the sargeant majors that swarm all over you. The queen angel (lower left) was very cooperative and photogenic.

The front did arrive on Friday morning with some rain and wind, but it didn't stop us from making a dinghy trip over to Sampson Cay where Andiamo and Pekabu III were still hanging out. We just donned bathing suits and foul weather jackets and headed out through the Fowls Cay cut and across a small "rage" and came into Sampson Cay through the "back door" - across the sandbar for a 2 for 1 pizza special lunch. The chef there is incredible, and so was the pizza! We had brought dry clothes and changed aboard Andiamo before lunch. The ride back (downwind) was less exciting. Dan and Patrick were ready to head out for a short snorkel trip when we returned but Rose and I chose to relax aboard. It was cool enough that we decided to eat below for dinner. Good sleeping weather!

We had requested a mooring for Saturday at Warderick Wells and listened to the nine o'clock radio report to see if we would get a spot. It is first come first served and possession is 9/10s, but there were enough boats leaving that all three of us would be together again at Emerald Rock, so we pulled the anchor shortly after hearing the report and had a wonderful sail up to the Park (14 nm) - making 6+knots most of the way with just the jib. When we slowed to 5 knots for a little while Patrick decided to try putting out a line and just as we were about to enter park waters and were talking about pulling it in he got a strike! He reeled in a nice sized Blue Runner Jack. We decided we weren't ready to deal with it, so we released it after getting a few pictures. We picked up a mooring at noon and had a quick lunch. Dan, Patrick and Rose headed into the Park office to pay for the mooring and get Wifi and then took a walk up BooBoo Hill. They called the wifi info back to me so I could make a blog entry while they explored.

Documentation of the first fish caught by Brunelle (and Patrick)

They returned to pick me up and we headed ashore to hike the trail that leads to the ruins of Tory settlers from 200 years ago. We were back aboard in time for another swim and to get ready for the weekly beach party on whale beach just below park headquarters. Rose made a batch of Pisco sours (Chilean "national" drink) and off we went with a few snacks to share. There were 16 dinghies on the beach when we headed back to Brunelle. Quite a gathering... it was enjoyed by all. ~~~_/)~~~D&M, P&R

I was tickled to see the same gorgonian coral

I had seen two years ago at Harvey Cay.

Brunelle from two different angles.

Cambridge Cay to Big Majors Spot to Sampson Cay

Nice stroke Mr. Pig

We left Emerald Rock around 9 am last Saturday and headed south east to Cambridge Cay, the southernmost part of the park. The wind was strong and on the nose as we headed into the cut leading into the mooring field and the current was running rapidly. Just as we were approaching the turn into the harbor we encountered a dive boat that asked us to keep clear, so we skirted them and lost concentration long enough to run aground as we entered a narrow passage to the mooring field. We spent five hours waiting for the tide to finish going down and then back up, but it wasn't an unpleasant experience. Sam snorkeled all around us and assessed the situation, so we knew which way to go when we did get off. We picked up the mooring at 5:30 and watched for the green flash as sunset-no dice. We had hoped to hike a bit on Cambridge, but didn't get a chance.

Next morning we were off in quieter wind headed for Big Majors Spot - the home of the famous beach pigs. We dropped the hook at 11 and joined about 20 other boats already there, including C-400 Runaway, Matt and Marty Miller from Solomons, MD. They were anchored in almost the same exact spot two years ago! They headed over to Thunderball Grotto at the same time Brunelle's crew did, so they checked in with Dan. I was aboard Brunelle with a napping Oliver so they stopped by on their way back to Runaway to chat. When Dan and the kids got back from diving on Thunderball grotto there was still time for a trip to the beach for Ben to "dig". They swung by the pig beach, where they were greeted with lots of grunts and anticipation, but alas not scraps, and then went further on to a quiet little beach for Ben.

Here's a week with Ben followed by....

a week with Oliver

Monday meant an early run to the airport to send Julia, John and Betty's daughter back to DC. Dan rode along in our dinghy as a dry run for the trip tomorrow for our crew. There wasn't a breath of air this morning, unlike any day we've seen in either of our experiences here in the Bahamas. We spent most of the morning swimming off the stern of the boat. Ben got very good and very brave about swimming all around. Oliver enjoyed it too. We made an abortive snorkel run in the afternoon, we couldn't seem to find the spot we had visited two years ago, so it turned into a scenic tour of the area. It included us running out of gas in the dinghy about a quarter of a mile from the boat. Sam took to the oars and got us halfway home when a Boston Whaler came by and offered a tow.

We borrowed Andiamo's dinghy on Tuesday morning to get all six of us and lots of luggage ashore. We made it in plenty of time and joined a crowd of about twenty people waiting for Flamingo Air and Watermakers Air to show up. The Hinckley crew made it onto the first plane and so did all their luggage and we headed back to Brunelle to prepare for tomorrow's crew, Patrick and Rose. We headed to Samson Cay at about 11. We had heard that Tuesday was free water day and all sorts of other deals. The trip was only 3 miles, so we arrived in time for $2 lunch specials and joined Pekabu III (who have been here at Sampson for two days) Andiamo and new friends from Jubilee for a leisurely (actually incredibly slow) lunch! It was so slow the chef came out and told us there would be no charge. I was able to do two loads of laundry while we waited to order and be served! Two more loads and we are ready for tomorrow. It was early to bed as we were both beat.

The trip to Staniel Cay "Airport" was an experience! I wish I had gotten a picture of the pilot, Chester, who had to weigh 300 lbs, as he climbed in the window into the pilot's seat! Patrick and Rose had him as a pilot on their flight and Patrick was less than enthusiastic when he noticed that most of the gauges didn't even work! At least all arrived safely.

Sampson Cay is a beautiful spot and we enjoyed our short stay, but we're off for Staniel Cay to pick up Patrick and Rose. We haven't been able to get on the internet here even though they offer it, so I'll just keep updating this until I can send it. ~~~_/)~~~M&D